Your questions answered: Steering, electrics, and fuel problems

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Freelander 2 power steering problem solved : credit: © Ed Evans
Our experts answer your questions: Freelander 2 steering, Defender electrics, Discovery 4 fuel block

Freelander 2 powerless steering

I have a 2010 2.2-litre Freelander 2 HSE. After exhaustive parts changing and much head scratching we still have the original problem of a leaking power steering rack. I have replaced the rack with an original Land Rover rack, and the fluid container. Now, when the steering is moved to full lock and close to full lock, it gets total loss of power steering assistance and the fluid gets very hot.

I have replaced the power steering pump and all the hoses apart from the one from reservoir to the pump and I still have the same problem. Both the garage and myself are at a total loss of what the issue is for a simple hydraulic system, which now has all new parts and has been bled as per the workshop manual. Any ideas you might have would be much appreciated.
Vince Batting

Hydraulic power steering systems should always be filled with the Land Rover specified fluid, and this is especially critical with Freelander 2

Andrew Varrall replies: The Freelander 2 steering system is quite straightforward, but is also fairly renowned for problems due to the parts used in the rack. The rack starts to wear, which allows particles of metal to circulate through the system and this, in turn, can destroy the pump as well. You have replaced all of the relevant components with new quality parts and, hopefully, flushed the system when you originally just changed the rack.

From your description of the fault and the work so far carried out, I can only guess that the system has been filled with the wrong fluid. The system is only designed to run with CHF202 fluid which is green in colour. If you have any of the ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) based fluids which are red, then the system will not operate properly and new damage could soon be done.

 

Defender’s old electrics upset the LEDs

A few years ago I replaced the standard indicators and side lights on my 1996 300Tdi Defender with LED units and fitted a revised flasher unit from Bolt on Bits. They have worked well until this week when, switching on for a left turn, all four (plus two side repeater lights) flashed.

When making a right turn the lights remained correct with just the right side flashing. A call to Bolt on Bits ascertained that they were aware of the fault and had a fixing kit in development, but they declined to disclose what caused the fault. In the meantime, they said the fault could be rectified by removing the indicator bulb from the dashboard panel, and indeed this works. By reference to circuit diagrams, I have tried to understand how such a fault could occur, and why removing the dashboard lamp cures it, but to no avail. I wondered if the experts at LRM could throw any light on the matter.
Nigel Bennett

B-O-B’s RDX Earth Fix for LED indicators  comprises a replacement LED indicator warning  bulb with its own independent earth lead

Ed Evans replies: After speaking with Bolt on Bits (BoB) I can confirm its RDX LED fix kit for this concern is now available to buy from its website boltonbits.co.uk. The fix comprises an LED indicator warning bulb to replace the existing bulb. The LED bulb also has an earth lead which is led to an instrument earth point.

BoB explain that the issue you’ve experienced mainly affects older Land Rovers such as the Tdi models, and the symptoms that have developed on your vehicle are quite common after upgrading the indicators to LED (whether from BoB or other makes). It is usually caused by an earth leakage somewhere in the system, which is a fairly typical occurrence on older vehicles. For the benefit of other LRM readers, this does not apply to Td5 and TDCi models because their indicator systems are already isolated.

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Discovery 4 fuel block

I have a 2015 Discovery 4. It has been troublesome starting recently and, to cut a long story short, I have diagnosed a poor or faulty low pressure fuel pump.

The tank is off the vehicle and on the bench. The issue I have is removing the pump module which is covered in a slimy, spongy substance which I believe has bunged up the mesh filter under the unit.

I can see into the tank and I see no obvious fixing. It is held in the tank by some hidden clip or tab or whatever, and I am not sure how to release it from the tank. I am reluctant to force it as I do not wish to damage anything.

I have seen videos and photos online but they only refer to Discovery 3 models which are different from the 2015 models.
Steve Bunford

Here is Steve Bunford’s Discovery 4 fuel pump, nestling inside the tank, ready to be released with an anti-clockwise twist

Steve Grant replies: The pump is on a rotation lock, and it releases quite easily. Rotate it anti-clockwise about a quarter of a turn to release it from the tank base. No tools should be needed.

After clearing the sludge from under the pump and blowing the pipework through, the Discovery is running well with the same pump. Steve B adds that “the pick-up pipe on the module is only millimetres from the tank bottom, drawing in any contaminants, whereas the old Discovery 3 pick-up was on the side of the module a good 35mm from the bottom – that explains why I did around 252,000 miles with no fuel supply issues on the D3.”

 

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