11 February 2023
Alisdair Cusick explains why servicing a 2012 diesel Evoque is a DIY prospect
Need to know
Time: 3 hours.
Cost: See below.
Models: Evoque Mark 1 and Discovery Sport 2.2 Diesel.
Tools needed: Socket set, spanners, screwdriver, seal pick, brake fluid tester, coolant tester, rags, torch, pry bar, brush and anti-seize paste, lubricant, oil catch tray, socket flexi-drive.
Parts & costs: Service kit (DA6091P), £42 to £88.
• Wear eye protection when working under a vehicle.
• Always support a vehicle on suitably-rated stands, never rely on a jack.
• Ensure the raised vehicle is stable and on firm, level ground with wheels chocked and where possible, a gear selected and the park brake applied.
• Use the right tool for the right job.
• If in doubt, get a professional.
Thanks to: Britpart and Steve Grant for their help with this feature.
Here’s something different: a 2012 Evoque. Servicing an early Evoque is similar to a Freelander 2, so it’s a job that can be done in a home workshop. Despite being with us for a decade now, the Evoque is still on the fringes of the enthusiast movement but, while they were expensive new and depreciated slowly, prices have come down so they are an affordable and practical Land Rover to own and run. Enthusiasts now consider running them as family cars, and this feature may help you decide if the early model and DIY servicing is for you, too.
LRM Technical likes to use servicing time as an extra opportunity for close inspection of our Land Rovers. Whilst working on it, you can easily check for anything amiss, but you will need to be familiar with the Evoque. Familiarity with your vehicle means you spot signs of issues before they become a problem which, in the long run, maximises reliability.
With the help of Britpart’s Steve Grant and LRM’s Ed Evans, we’ll walk you around what goes into servicing an Evoque. This month we perform a basic service on a 2012 Evoque Sd4 with manual transmission, and consider which issues are starting to present in the early models.
Before we start: the basics. Always follow a model-specific workshop manual when servicing any Land Rover. More importantly, understand not just the processes, but the reasons for doing a task. Only by understanding what something does can you identify if it isn’t working as intended. Be confident in your abilities and have the right tools to do the right job.
That said, the first job is to drive the car 10 miles or so, up to full operating temperature. Does it brake, steer, run and drive as you would expect? Are there any strange vibrations, noises, suspension knocks or so on? Check all lights, wipers and seat belts. Make a note of anything you think may be amiss. If you aren’t doing repair work yourself, your trusted specialist will appreciate you isolating any potential problems accurately.
We begin under the bonnet where there are a number of filters to change, along with the engine oil. We start with the fuel filter, though you may prefer to let the engine oil drain while you’re attending to that. Note, the engine should be warm to help drain the oil. Always have a routine of what you do when – then stick to it. That way you don’t miss anything.
We’ve demonstrated how to change fluids in gearboxes and axles before, and the principle of fluid changes on an Evoque is no different: a drain plug and a fill plug. Unlike earlier Land Rovers, not all filler plugs on an Evoque serve as a level gauge though, so check.
There are procedures for changing Evoque fluids by using a vacuum drain instead of a drain plug. Again, check, and use which is most appropriate for you. The significant element of Evoque maintenance is the car’s use of fault codes – of which there are many. To maintain the model fully yourself, you’ll need a way of reading and diagnosing those by communicating with the car via the on-board diagnostic (OBD) port, such as Steve Grant’s Autologic.
Attending to the basics
Light fantastic: First start the car, and check that the dash warning lamps appear and then correctly extinguish. Are there any warning lights remaining on or warning messages?
Lay of the land: The engine bay is almost identical to a Freelander 2 Td4, with plastic covers and relatively tight packaging. Fear not, the usual mechanical bits are still underneath.
Kill the power: First disconnect the battery negative, the earth on the car. This isn’t needed for the service, but is a process in the ancillary drive belt procedure.
Pollen protection: First, the most commonly ignored item: the pollen filter. Access is tight in the passenger footwell, so whip out the old, and curve the new into the housing, like this.
Clean air: We’re changing the air filter, so disconnect the sensor to the filter, then release the screw fixings for the top housing, as on a Discovery 3 or Range Rover Sport.
King of clean: Remove the air filter. Steve vacuums out the housing. He finds they can fill with huge quantities of leaves, sucked into the intake in the wing/bonnet recess.
In with the new: In goes the new filter (write the date on if you wish) then refit the housing fixings, and reconnect the sensor connector. All dead easy so far.
Bonnet care: Lubricate the bonnet catches, as they can seize, meaning you struggle to open the bonnet. Never use white grease, which hardens, use conventional thin oil.
Whilst we’re there: Checks coolant for antifreeze protection. The hydrometer shows we’re safe to -10°C. Top up with concentrate if increased protection is needed between service intervals.
Brake efficiency: The brake fluid is tested for water content. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs water, which boils unlike brake fluid. A very good 0 per cent here.
All is revealed: Engine cover fixings removed, off comes the plastic to reveal the engine. There isn’t much to see: this is the era of plastic rather than alloy rocker covers.
Renewing the fuel filter
More complex: We’re changing the fuel filter, which is a plastic assembly, incorporating the filter, a water drain, and additionally a thermostat. This is relatively new on a Land Rover.
Why the thermostat? In low temperatures, the HP side of the filter loops fuel back through itself to warm up faster, aiding combustion. At operating temperature, fuel returns to the tank.
12,000 mile service interval
12,000 service interval: The filter incorporates a water drain, and must be drained prior to removal using an Allen key. A plastic pipe is connected to the drain while in the vehicle.
Removing fuel filter: Remove the heavy-duty front cover, then undo the fixings for the fuel filter and sensor wire. Steve cracks the socket head bolts with leverage from a ring spanner.
Pipes off: Remove the fuel pipes, noting what goes where, and the direction arrow on the filter. The connectors should just squeeze off, but may need force.
Let it out: Steve inserts a pipe from below into the filter drain, routing it to a catch vessel, then undoes the drain tap on the top of the filter. The filter drains of fluids.
Swap over: Noting the direction arrow on the filter, remove the old, and replace with the new. Tighten the fixings, reconnect the fuel pipes, sensor wire and cover plate.
Bleed tool: The filter needs the air bleeding out. For that, a bleed pump connects the fuel feed to the filter feed. Pump the bulb until it goes firm, and you’re done.
Engine oil and filter
Access: We move under the car now. First off is the obligatory undertray. The fixings can be corroded; a dab of copper grease is a good idea to alleviate issues.
Keyhole surgery: The oil filter is on the front of the engine. Access is tight, so a 27mm flexi-ratchet spanner is needed to unscrew the filter cover from the housing.
Clean and seal: The filter cartridge is pulled out from the housing, then Steve cleans the filter cover using brake cleaner and cloth, and renews this rubber o-ring.
Back it goes: The new cartridge is fitted into the housing, then the filter cover (with clean oil dabbed on the o-ring) is screwed onto the housing and tightened to 25Nm.
Oil out: Out comes the sump plug, and the engine oil drains into a suitably sized container. Time for a cup of tea to let it drain fully, even on a warm engine.
Tight, not over-tight: Replace the washer on the sump plug, and refit to the sump. Don’t over-tighten it though, unless you want to make the job a nightmare.
Fill it up: In goes 5W-30 synthetic oil – 5.9 litres for a service fill. If in doubt, always work up to a level, confirming it to be maximum on the dipstick.
From the wheelarch: Next is the ancillary belt, meaning offside wheel off and arch liner out. Corrosion means the fixings can be difficult. Steve levers the fasteners off whilst undoing them.
Simple tip: With the arch liner out, we see the belt. Top tip here is to draw a diagram of the belt layout as a guide for fitting the new one.
Off, then on: Release it by slackening the belt tensioner. It needs a bit of force, so a long bar on the socket helps. Refit is easy if you have your diagram…
Finish the job: Refit the arch liner. Steve finds the plastic fixings can have very little thread, or even split. If so, he simply taps it squarely onto the (inevitably corroded) thread.
Stop check: Inspect discs at each corner. Check for lipping, thickness and wear (finger pointer) and pads for thickness (screwdriver). They should be consistent, side to side.
Knock, chafe, leak? Check all suspension bushes for play or damage. Check sensor cables for chafing, brake hoses and pipes for leaks or damage. Suspension here looks good.
They all do that, Sir: Here we see something commonly affecting Discovery 3 and Range Rover Sport: corrosion on the fuel tank cradle. It is common, so check and replace it if needed.
Tight packaging: Check too for corrosion or leaks on the intercooler pipes, and for signs of chafing on any pipework where it sits near the body or subframe.
Rear end: Inspect the rear for fluid leaks around the diff, splits in driveshaft boots and anything that might be amiss. This corrosion is typical on a 10-year-old Evoque.
Transmission oils: Renew gearbox, rear diff and power transfer unit oil at 160k/10 years. Gearbox drain plug shown. Remove filler plug before drain plug.
Service reset: After reconnecting the battery, reset the service indicator using the diagnostic tool and clear any fault codes. Obviously, any fault codes that don’t clear need investigation.
Service kits: Britpart offers three service kits for this model, in basic, OE and genuine specifications. This means owners are able to choose a price level that suits their needs.
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