Replace a D3 front anti-roll (stabiliser) bar link


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Arrows show where the anti-roll bar link sits : credit: © Dave Barker
It’s always best to have your car’s problems diagnosed by a Land Rover specialist. Dave explains an easy DIY job

Need to know

Time: 30 mins. 
Cost: See below.
Difficulty: 1 out of 5
Models: Specifically Discovery 3, but typical symptoms and fix for all vehicles with anti-roll bar.
Tools needed: General workshop tools including 18mm and 8mm
spanners and sockets and a wire brush.
Parts & costs: Front (stabiliser) anti-roll bar drop link (fits both left and right sides), part number RBM500190; prices range from £8 to £32 depending on brand.
Work safely:
• Wear protective gloves or barrier cream to protect the skin from oils and sharp edges of components.
• Always support the raised part of the vehicle on suitably rated axle stands and ensure the vehicle is on a firm level floor. Wheels should be chocked and a gear and/or park brake engaged where possible.
Thanks to: Maddison 4x4, Water House Farm, Station Road, Topcliffe near Thirsk, YO7 3SG.  Tel: 01845 587407.


This 2005 Discovery 3 with 175,000 miles on the clock was booked into the workshop after an MoT test suggested both front suspension lower arms should be replaced because they were knocking. However, as the Discovery was being driven into the workshop there was no knocking to be heard, and on the vehicle lift the upper and lower arms on both sides were found to be in good condition with no signs of play. There was, however, play in the top joint of the left-hand front anti-roll bar drop link, and it was enough to cause a knock while driving. Replacing a single anti-roll bar drop link is considerably quicker and cheaper than replacing a pair of upper or lower suspension arms.

Corrosion: The threaded ends of the anti-roll bar links are often corroded, so the two stud threads are wire brushed and penetrating oil applied before they are loosened.

Tricky access: Top nut is easy, but lower nut at the back is hard to reach from the front. Holding the spanner flat on the thread ends prevents the ball joints rotating.

Released: Photographed from a clearer angle, here is the lower nut removed from the anti-roll bar attachment and the drop link pulled free before releasing the upper.

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Remove link: With both nylon-insert nuts removed, the anti-roll bar link is extracted by wiggling both threaded end studs from their mountings and taken off the Discovery.

New part: The new anti-roll bar link. The ends on each stud have spanner flats, so an open-ended spanner can prevent rotation while tightening or releasing the nuts.

Easy fit: New nylon-insert locking nuts are used to secure the link, tightened to 115Nm. Exposed threads are lightly coated in anti-seize grease.

Back together: The job is completed and, thanks to taking the car to a specialist garage, the cure proved far cheaper than replacing the suspension arms.


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